The load decides everything
A pad for a garden shed and a pad for a tractor are not the same slab with a different outline. Thickness, reinforcement and sub-base depth all come off the answer to one question: what is going to sit on it, and what is going to drive onto it. Out in Newberry, Bell and Trenton that answer is frequently heavier than people expect once you count the trailer.
We ask before we quote. Getting the answer wrong in the cheap direction is how a pad cracks under the first real load, and there is no adding thickness to a slab after it is poured.
Level, square and dry
A shed or a metal building will fight a pad that is out of level for its whole life — doors that will not latch, walls that rack, water running the wrong way. Getting the pad flat and square is the entire point of hiring someone for it.
Drainage is the other half. A pad sitting in a low spot collects water against whatever is on it, and in Florida that means rust and rot in short order. Where the site needs it, we build the pad up and pitch the ground around it so water leaves rather than pools.
What we pour
Shed and outbuilding pads, shop and garage slabs, barn floors and aisles, RV and camper pads, boat and trailer parking, equipment pads, generator and AC pads, and kennel runs. Some of that is flatwork with a broom finish and some of it wants a harder, denser surface that will take abuse and be easy to hose down.
If you are having a metal building delivered, get the pad specification from the building supplier before we quote. Anchor placement and edge detail are frequently dictated by the building, and it is far cheaper to build that in than to work around it.